Fionna Heiton

Journey across Tibet to Nepal: a future partner & founding First Steps Himalaya

When Founding Director, Fionna Heiton set off on her epic journey into Tibet and on to Nepal in 1998, she had no idea that she was about to meet her future partner and start an organisation that would transform early years education across Nepal.

“I had always dreamt of going to Tibet and after thoroughly researching my options of getting in without being on a tour, I landed in the Chinese city of Chengdu where there was a hotel known for creating tours for foreigners like myself.” A few days later, Fionna found herself in Tibet’s capital Lhasa on the roof of the world. “I couldn’t believe how easy the process for obtaining a visa and plane ticket was after all.”

Completely mesmerized by the ancient Barkhor market, Jokhang Temple and Tibetan culture, Fionna explored the city: monasteries, the Summer Palace of the Dalai Lama and of course the stunning Potala Palace itself. She spent hours sitting on the roof of the Jokhang Temple watching the monks below and the city beyond.

A few days later, she joined other travellers and set off again to the magical Namtso Lake. Set at the staggering altitude of 4,718 metres, temperatures plummeted at night, as did oxygen levels. “The trip to Namtso was quite an adventure! At one point, the jeep broke down in the late afternoon out on the marsh by the lake. It was freezing” Fionna recalls despite about eight layers of clothing.

Lake Namtso.jpg

Another side trip took her to the Yarlung Valley, the cradle of Tibetan civilization. Samye Monastery was accessed by boat across the Brahmaputra river. There was just one very basic guest house at the time. set in a medieval looking back street. This was adventure travel at its best!

Returning to Lhasa, the final leg of the journey was a drive across the high altitude Tibetan plateau via the ancient towns of Gyantse and Shigatse. The air was thin, the food spicy and the toilets open plan (which proved very interesting). The scenery was constantly changing: huge lakes, glaciers and ancient villages dotted across the landscape. Before leaving Tibet, the road descended steeply around seemingly endless hair-pin bends. When the Nepal border finally came in sight, Fionna had no idea that she would end up working in the rural hilly area that she drove through that day.

Arriving in Nepal’s capital Kathmandu, and dreaming of her first hot shower in a while, Fionna checked into a hotel in the tourist area. She was out of luck with the hot water and moved the next day to a hotel that had been recommended to her, tired, hungry and in need of a shower. She was also down to her last $50. Determined to stay in Nepal, she planned to go job hunting immediately.

The restaurant manager, a young Nepali man named Durga noticed that she couldn’t even afford a coffee and placed a hot steaming cup in front of her: on the house! The rest is history and Fionna and Durga have now been together for the last 22 years.

In 2001, when expecting their twin babies, Fionna and Durga decided to start an organisation to give Nepali children access to better educational opportunities. Inspired by Durga’s childhood, and now their own children’s future, they became passionate advocates for improving education in rural communities and helping others see the immense difference it can make. First Steps Himalaya was born. Find out more here.

Together they have travelled extensively with their children in the Himalayan region including the Everest Base Camp Trek when the twins were just 7 years old. They’ve explored Ladakh and driven from Chengdu in China to Shangrila in Tibet. ‘Our children have grown up with an incredible sense of adventure and love connecting with their relatives in Nepal.’ They are both passionate about helping others less privileged and are determined to make a real difference in the world.

DSCN1107.JPG

For inspiration on travelling with children check out our tailor made tours in Nepal, Bhutan, Tibet and Ladakh or email us: info@beyondtheclouds.org.nz

Best places to visit in the Himalaya

Best places to visit in the Himalaya

Where are the best places to visit in the Himalaya? The Beyond The Clouds team are passionate travellers, and experts on the Himalaya. Between us we have decades of knowledge and experience travelling around and organising tours in the region. We have lived in and explored Nepal, Bhutan, Tibet and Ladakh, so you can trust our in-depth understanding of the destinations we send our customers to. We hand-pick all of our accommodation and restaurants, and many of the itineraries are ones we’ve travelled ourselves. We only plan trips that we would love to do ourselves!

Choosing the best travel insurance for you

Finding the right travel insurance can be a daunting experience. There are literally thousands of companies out there offering travel insurance packages but finding the best option that suits your pocket AND provides adequate cover is not so easy. What is included and what is not included in an insurance package varies enormously between companies. Whilst some standard policies cover trip interruption costs others don’t. Some policies will cover alternative therapies, compassionate emergency visits home and accidental death. Many companies offer a few different tiers of cover and you should think carefully about what is best suited to you rather than always opting for the cheapest one.

Some people assume that the ‘free’ travel insurance provided by their credit card company will cover them. But they don’t read the small print and the cover may not be adequate. This varies from company to company.

Your destination is important too. You need to check if the policy you are looking at covers you at altitudes over 3,000 metres. Many Beyond The Clouds treks in Nepal and Bhutan take travellers well over 3,000 metres such as Laya Ghasa and Jomolhari in Bhutan, whilst in Nepal the Three Passes trek, Gokyo Lakes and Everest Base Camp. Anyone going to Ladakh or most parts of Tibet will be travelling over 3,000 metres so this is something to watch out for in the small print. If you are doing any form of adventure sport, you will probably need extra cover too. Although trekking on good paths is not normally considered an adventure sport.

Older travellers are not always covered by standard policies. If you are travelling as a family, it often pays to find a policy that will cover all of you rather than buying separate insurance.

We at Beyond The Clouds have loved World Nomads Insurance for many years. We use it ourselves and in fact we have good reason to love them even more following my recent accident whilst on holiday in Cambodia. With a badly sprained ankle, the Cambodian doctor said that although I was fit to fly the next day, I must return on business class with my leg elevated to avoid getting a deep vein thrombosis (DVT). I can honestly say that World Nomads were sensational. From the moment I contacted them, I was impressed with their speed, efficiency and professionalism. They got straight onto the airline and although there were no business class seats available, they booked me a new ticket on a flight 15 mins before the one I should have been on with my family. I was so impressed and will continue to choose World Nomads travel insurance every time.

Imagine what you would do if something awful happened on your trip and you were not covered. The bill for private medical care, new flights and replacement items can run into thousands. For a much smaller sum, travel insurance offers peace of mind and practical support when things turn out differently.

Of course no one wants to have to anything go wrong on their holiday but having fully comprehensive travel insurance in place means you can relax safe in the knowledge that you would be looked after should you need it. Safe travels!!

Approching Airport 2.jpg

Yoga Journeys reach new heights

There has been a huge growth in the range of yoga retreats and holidays available to keen yoga students. There is now such a market for yoga trips that you could take your pick of destinations: Bali, Spain, Guatemala, Tuscany and now of course Bhutan, Tibet and Nepal with Beyond The Clouds.

 

30408479396_408d430581_o.jpg

Beyond The Clouds ran its first Yoga journey in 2012 with the lovely Maureen McKain from Nelson. We took Maureen and her yoga students to our project village where they spent a week helping at the project before exploring Pokhara and Chitwan National Park. Soon the number of groups increased and in more recent years, we have been offering Yoga Journeys in Bhutan. 

We have two yoga journeys scheduled in September/ October this year and our March 2018 Yoga Journey is already fully booked. So what is the attraction of a yoga holiday? It is a perfect way to combine travel with like minded people whilst furthering your yoga practice, relaxing and unwinding from the stresses of everyday life. Men are now joining their wives on these trips or a group of ladies head off together on an unforgettable yoga holiday.

Now Beyond The Clouds is starting Tibet Yoga Journeys staying in a stunning chain of Tibet owned and managed boutique lodges. Founding Director, Fionna Heiton says " Yoga journeys are our best selling trips. Someone books and suddenly their friends want to join them. They feel safe in our hands and can relax knowing that we will be with them every step of the way."

yoga pun hill.jpg

Beyond The Clouds is always on the look out for qualified yoga teachers interested in leading Yoga Journeys with them! 

The road to Shangri-La

{Part 7 - Our Founding Director Fionna Heiton is currently travelling in Tibet with her teenage twins}

We have almost reached the end of our Tibetan Journey and finally, after driving right across the Tibetan plateau, over high passes inhabited only by passing nomads and yaks, we have arrived at our final destination, Shangri-La! Nervous that it wouldn’t live up to its reputation, we stop first at Napa Lake. No need to worry, there are yaks and horses grazing by the grassy lakeside surrounded by mountains shimmering in the midday sun. It reminds me of Phewa Lake in Pokhara, Nepal in the 1980s before the hotels sprung up along the lakeside.

We stroll through the old town, which despite much of it being destroyed by a devastating fire in 2014, it has been rebuilt and is perfectly charming! We explore handicraft shops and have a wonderful Indian style meal at The Three Brothers Cafe. After dinner, we join around hundred local Tibetans at the nightly community dance. Tibetan circle dancing is not as easy as it looks. I felt like a contestant on the amazing race, trying to learn the steps before getting my next clue! It didn’t really seem to matter and they seemed delighted that we had joined in! Each dance was different, always in a circle and all quite exhausting in the thin 3,300 metre air.

Our gorgeous Tibetan owned boutique hotel is set in a small village overlooking the Songzanlin Monastery, Yunnan’s largest monastery. Modelled on the Potala Palace, construction began in 1679. Filled with treasures, it once housed 3,000 monks.

The head lama has just died and thousands of locals come to pay their respects, wearing their colourful regional dress. We watch monks praying and debating and chat to an elderly monk about his life. Back at the hotel, we learn that by staying there we are not only helping to employ local Tibetans but that the hotel also supports anyone from the village wishing to go to a higher education institute. The hotel group is opening in Lhasa soon and we meet young Tibetans aspiring to be chefs and restaurant managers. This is a wonderful way of supporting over 300 Tibetans. I join morning meditation class looking out on the monastery before feasting on a wonderful buffet breakfast. We save some bread and cheese for a picnic lunch overlooking the monastery.

The next morning, we join pilgrims pushing the worlds largest prayer wheel which was so heavy it took at least 10 people tugging on ropes to make it move. Our journey in Kham has been a wonderful and highly authentic cultural experience.

We wish we could stay on or continue across the Tibetan plateau but sadly it is time to return to New Zealand, cherishing memories of this very special place. We visit one last monastery, turning prayer wheels for one last Om Mani Hum.

View all our Tibet journeys here

Lost Horizons

{Part 6 - Our Founding Director Fionna Heiton is currently travelling in Tibet with her teenage twins}

James Hilton wrote Lost Horizons in 1933. He in fact travelled extensively in Kham before writing Lost Horizons which would go onto become one of the most famous books on Tibet. Although very dated, it tells of a plane that crashes on the Tibetan Plateau. The passengers meet a monk who takes them to a beautiful place, Shangri La.  Since then, people have searched for Shangri La. Some say it exists only in your mind. For me, I think it can be anywhere that you find special. The day I travelled from Yading down from the plateau, I think I found my Shangri La. The road from Xiangcheng climbed steeply affording incredible views as we reached high passes. Mile after mile, we travelled through forests and empty valleys. Any plane crashing here would indeed be lost.  Dropping down into yet another valley, we were amazed to find only a village or two. We were miles from anywhere and glad that our driver knew the way.

Eventually a larger village had a small Tibetan restaurant. We devoured the fried rice before continuing towards the Yunnan border. We have booked into a hotel just outside Benzilan for the night. Benzilan was one of the key places on the old tea and horse trading route connecting Tibet and India. With 15 kilometres to go, we look forward to a hot shower and dinner. However road works on the Yangtse River Gorge, meant a 2 hour delay. We reach our accommodation for the night in time for a lovely dinner.

Looking out on a small temple the exquisite boutique hotel was authentically Tibetan in style, service and management. Sun poured through colourful stained glass and fruit trees flourished in the garden. The days journey melted away.

Want to find Shangri-La?  Find out more about our Road to Shangri-La Joruney here

Heavy snow on the plateau

{Part 5 - Our Founding Director Fionna Heiton is currently travelling in Tibet with her teenage twins}

Yading National Park is renowned for its outstanding natural beauty, turquoise lakes and snow capped mountains. The pictures I had seen were stunning and my excitement grew as we drew closer. We check into a stunning brand new hotel to be greeted by Khampas who turned out to be nomads tempted by the easy job of greeting and singing to guests! The guys have enough English to explain that they come from the plateau near Lijang and will get 4 days off a month to visit their families. They seem delighted with their new roles which seems a lot easier than tending yaks.

The next morning, the weather does not look good. Rain turns to snow. Determined to visit the national Park we head to the ticket office to catch the shuttle bus to the national park. We have forgotten our passports and officials refuse to let us go until we quote our passport numbers. Luckily the hotel has our passport information and we head up the mountain accompanied by excited Chinese tourists who have never seen snow before.

The snow gets deeper and deeper as we reach the entrance to the park. It is freezing and are glad of our thermals, down jackets, hats and gloves. Visibility is poor, yet there is a great beauty in the pristine snow scenes.

We discover a brand new monastery being built and head in out of the cold. Artists from a nearby town have been commissioned to paint Buddhist murals.

We warm ourselves by their electric heating ring and chat about their work. Outside the snow piles down and locals invite us to join them around a roaring open fire. The atmosphere is wonderful and we linger with these generous folk. However away from the fire, it is bitterly cold and we return to the hotel to warm up. We may not have seen the stunning views of Yading National Park but we did have a unique Tibetan experience that we wouldn’t have swapped for anything!

Want to experience Tibet for yourself?  Find out more about our Road to Shangri-La Joruney here

Mountains, Myth & Magic

{Part 4 - Our Founding Director Fionna Heiton is currently travelling in Tibet with her teenage twins}

The drive from Danba to Tagong is spectacular. Rushing rivers and forests give way to rocky outcrops and eventually climbing to the plateau home to Tibetan nomads and their herds of yaks. Every corner offers breath-taking views of snow- capped mountains, as we climbed back to the grasslands at an altitude of 3700 metres.

Tagong Monastery is one of the most important in Eastern Tibet and pilgrims flock here, particularly those unable to afford the trip to Lhasa. The monastery was founded when the Tang Princess, Wencheng who was to be married to the Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo was passing through Tagong en route to Lhasa in the 7th century. A statue of Jowo Sakya–Muni Buddha fell at the exact spot where the monastery stands today. A replica of that statue remains today (the original is in Lhasa) attracting pilgrims. Inside the monastery, an unusual key and lock are believed to heal ailments. My guide taps it on my sore shoulder and I have to say, it did seem to make a difference!

Leaving Tagong we pass beautiful rock paintings depicting Buddha adorned with prayer flags. Our stop for the night is in traditional Tibetan castle style boutique hotel! The deluxe Tibetan style rooms offer comfortable beds, quality linen and even a steam machine to help increase the oxygen in the room. Dinner is Tibetan style thukpa, a kind of soup with noodles. Our host Norbu plays the guitar and sings Tibetan folk songs beautifully as we sit around the fire until the embers die down. We fall asleep inside our cosy room trying not to forget this amazing experience.

Want to experience Tibet for yourself?  Find out more about our Mountains, Myth & Magic Journey here.  

Discovering Danba

{Part 3 - Our Founding Director Fionna Heiton is currently travelling in Tibet with her teenage twins}

Nestled above a deep valley, the glorious remote villages of Danba settle above a large array of dramatic mountain slopes. Attracting many artists and photographers, Danba is also known as the ‘Kingdom of Watchtowers’ and ‘Valley of Beauty’. It is one of those unique destinations offering tranquility, picturesque scenes and friendly welcoming people.

We stayed at Pema’s homestay, munching on fresh steamed bread with eggs for breakfast. Her welcoming hospitality made our stay much more special.

 

Above the house we followed tree lined paths, offering shade from the sun. As we climbed above the village under endless blue skies, the views were simply stunning of the ancient watch towers and traditional houses dotted throughout the landscape.

It would be nice to think that Danba can retain its charm well into the future, as more people discover this village paradise.

For more information on our Tibet trips, click here.